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The round sandstone bastions of Jaisalmer fort against a clear sky
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Rajasthan · Thar desertDesert camps, camel safari, havelis

Jaisalmer

The Golden City. One of the few forts anywhere still lived in, and dunes forty kilometres west of it.

Overview

About Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer was founded in 1156 on a ridge of yellow sandstone in the Thar, on the caravan route between Delhi and Central Asia, and it got rich taxing what passed through. When the sea routes took that trade away the town simply stopped growing, which is why what stands today is largely what stood three hundred years ago.

The fort is the thing that makes it unusual. Sonar Qila is one of very few forts anywhere still inhabited — roughly two thousand people live inside the walls, in houses and shops and guesthouses, and the lanes are streets rather than exhibits. That also makes it fragile: the medieval drainage was never built for modern water use, and bastions have collapsed. We book hotels below the fort rather than inside it, and that is a deliberate choice we are happy to explain.

Two nights is the honest minimum, and one of them should be at a desert camp. Sam and Khuri, forty and fifty kilometres out, are where the dunes are: camel out for sunset, Manganiyar musicians and dinner at the camp, and a sky with nothing in the way. In December and January it drops close to freezing after dark, which surprises people packing for a desert.

Trip Highlights at a Glance

Sonar Qila, a fort still lived in
A night on the Sam dunes
Patwon ki Haveli's carved facades
Sunset at the Bada Bagh cenotaphs

Photo Reference

Jaisalmer in Pictures

Photography from Jaisalmer. Tap any photo to open it full size.

Quick Facts

State

Rajasthan, Thar desert

Founded

1156, by Rawal Jaisal

The fort

Sonar Qila — 99 bastions, and still lived in

Airport

Jaisalmer (JSA), 17 km — limited seasonal schedule

Railhead

Jaisalmer, with an overnight service from Jodhpur

Ideal duration

2 to 3 nights, including a desert camp

By road

Jodhpur 285 km (5 h) · Bikaner 330 km (5 h 30) · Udaipur 490 km (9–10 h)

Dunes

Sam 40 km · Khuri 50 km, quieter

In and around Jaisalmer

Top Places to Visit in Jaisalmer

The fort and the havelis are a day inside the walls. The desert is the other half of the trip, and it happens forty kilometres west.

Sandstone, and people living in it

The fort & the town

Sonar Qila, the havelis below it and Gadisar Lake. One full day, almost all of it walking, and better started early.

Jaisalmer FortLiving fort

Jaisalmer Fort

Built 1156, with 99 bastions and around two thousand residents still inside. The Jain temple cluster within the walls dates from the twelfth to sixteenth centuries.

  • 99 bastions
  • Jain temples inside
  • Stay below, not within
Patwon ki Haveli1805

Patwon ki Haveli

Five connected mansions raised by the Patwa trading family over fifty-odd years, with facades carved to a depth that looks structurally improbable.

  • Five havelis
  • Museum inside two
  • Nathmal ji nearby
Gadisar LakeDawn

Gadisar Lake

A twelfth-century rainwater reservoir that kept the town alive, ringed by ghats, chhatris and small shrines, entered through a carved sandstone gateway.

  • Boating available
  • Migratory birds in winter
  • Best before 8 am
Bada BaghSunset

Bada Bagh

Rows of royal cenotaphs on a ridge six kilometres out, with a wind farm turning behind them. The better sunset in Jaisalmer, and usually empty.

  • Royal chhatris
  • 6 km from town
  • Go for the last hour of light

Sam, Khuri and the ruins between

The desert

Forty to fifty kilometres west, and the reason most people book Jaisalmer at all. Plan on going out mid-afternoon and staying the night.

Sam sand dunes40 km

Sam sand dunes

The main dune field, and the busiest. Camel or jeep out for sunset, then camps with dinner, a bonfire and Manganiyar and Langa musicians.

  • Camel & jeep safari
  • Overnight camps
  • Very cold Dec–Feb
Khuri dunes50 km

Khuri dunes

Smaller, quieter and inside the Desert National Park. The choice if a hundred camels on one ridge is not what you had in mind.

  • Fewer visitors
  • Desert National Park
  • Village homestays
Kuldhara18 km

Kuldhara

A Paliwal Brahmin village abandoned overnight in the 1820s and empty since. Roofless stone houses in the sand, a restored temple, and a legend the guides enjoy.

  • Abandoned c.1825
  • On the Sam road
  • 45 minutes

Best Time to Visit

Climate & Seasons Guide

The seasonOctober – March

Temp: 5–28°C · Sea:

This is when Jaisalmer works. Days in the twenties, nights genuinely cold — near freezing in December and January. The Desert Festival falls in February and fills every camp in the district.

Do notApril – June

Temp: 30–48°C · Sea:

The Thar at 46–48°C. The camps largely close, the dunes are unwalkable by ten in the morning, and there is no version of this that is a good holiday.

MonsoonJuly – September

Temp: 28–40°C · Sea:

Very little rain reaches this far west, so it is mostly just less hot. Rates are at their lowest and the camps are quiet.

Travel Logistics

How You Reach Jaisalmer

01

By train

The overnight from Jodhpur is the best way in — it saves a driving day and puts you in Jaisalmer at breakfast. There are direct services from Delhi and Jaipur too.

02

By road

Five hours from Jodhpur on a straight, empty desert highway. Nine to ten from Udaipur, which is the single longest leg on the Rajasthan circuit and should be a full travel day.

03

By air

Jaisalmer airport is 17 km out but runs a limited, seasonal schedule that changes year to year. Do not build an itinerary around it without checking with us first.

Know Before You Go

Essential Travel Guidelines

  • Stay below the fort, not inside it. The medieval drainage cannot take modern hotel water use, bastions have collapsed, and conservation bodies have asked visitors not to sleep inside the walls.
  • Desert nights are cold from December to February — close to freezing at Sam. Pack a jacket regardless of what the daytime forecast says.
  • Khuri is quieter than Sam. If the idea of a hundred camels on the same dune ridge puts you off, ask for Khuri.
  • Camp tiers vary enormously, from basic Swiss tents to heated rooms with attached bathrooms. Ask which one you are being sold; we will tell you plainly.
  • The Desert Festival in February is worth timing a trip around — and every camp in the district sells out months ahead for it.
  • Sunset at Bada Bagh beats sunset at the fort viewpoint, and almost nobody is there.
  • Buy the fort and haveli tickets as you go; there is no useful combined ticket here.

Common Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

We do not book it, and we will say why. Sonar Qila is a living fort with medieval drainage that was never designed for hotel water use; seepage has undermined the foundations and bastions have collapsed. Conservation bodies have asked visitors not to stay within the walls. Hotels below the fort look up at it, which is the better view anyway.

Curated Itineraries

Featured Tour Packages in Jaisalmer

Fixed-price itineraries with hotels we have stayed in, private transfers throughout, and driving times stated the way they actually run.

Tailor-Made Itineraries

Plan Your Tailor-Made Jaisalmer Journey

Tell us your dates, who is travelling and what you actually want out of the trip, and we will build a Jaisalmer itinerary around it — with the driving times stated honestly and nothing hidden under the price.

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Photography credits
  • Jaisalmer Fort from the north at sunrise, the town below it — Vijainder K Thakur, CC BY-SA 3.0
  • The round bastions of the fort wall against a clear sky — Kanad Sanyal, CC BY-SA 4.0
  • A camel and rider on a dune ridge at golden hour — Karan Dhawan India, CC BY-SA 4.0
  • Camel silhouettes strung across the dunes at sunset — Professor108, CC BY-SA 4.0